Photography courtesy of andBeyond.com, Bateleur Camp, Masai Mara
Kenya · Masai Mara
&Beyond Bateleur Camp
Old-school safari in the Masai Mara: fireside evenings, a slower clock, and Out of Africa over the next hill.
&Beyond Bateleur Camp is two small tented camps of nine tents each, on the &Beyond Kichwa Tembo concession below the Oloololo escarpment, at the edge of the Masai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. Every tent has a butler. Meals, drinks and two safari activities a day are part of the stay; balloon flights and night drives are extra. We were there in Dec-2025.
Updated 20-Oct-2026
Crossing into Kenya and landing in the Mara felt like stepping into a sepia-toned photograph. Bateleur leans into that on purpose: Chesterfield sofas, vintage trunks and antiques, fireside corners made for storytelling, and the filming location of Out of Africa just over the next hill. A sense that time has politely slowed down, and that nobody is going to hurry you back up to speed.
Africa is even more impressive when she knows you're not in a rush.
One morning we traded tyres for a wicker basket and took to the sky in a hot-air balloon over the Mara. Drifting above the plains at first light, we watched the herds stitch patterns across the savannah while the world woke up beneath us. No engine noise, no commentary. Just altitude, perspective, and the quiet realisation that Africa is even more impressive when she knows you are not in a rush.
There was adrenaline too. This was where we tracked a lion hunt at night, the Mara revealing a darker, more electric version of itself: spotlights cutting through the black, the air taut, zebra yelping warnings somewhere behind us. Raw, intense, and a useful reminder that none of this is a theme park.
A day
What a day at Bateleur looks like
The morning drive leaves at first light in a 4x4 and stops for coffee once the sun is up. Because the camp sits on the Kichwa Tembo concession, guided bush walks are on offer as well as drives (two safari activities a day, game drive and/or nature walk, are part of the stay), and &Beyond lends a pair of Swarovski binoculars per room for the length of the visit. Night drives run with a spotlight and cost extra; on our Dec-2025 stay this is how we followed a lion hunt after dark.
A hot-air balloon flight (at an additional cost) lifts off at sunrise, spends about an hour over the Mara and lands to champagne and a full English bush breakfast, served family-style. If you would rather stay out all day, &Beyond also offers al fresco picnics: your guide finds the spot and sets the table.
In between: the daybeds on the veranda, a pool with the plains in front of it, the massage sala (treatments are extra), and then dinner on the deck under lanterns or by the boma fire. Bateleur manages the increasingly rare trick of feeling glamorous without insulating you from the bush. You can spend the afternoon following lions, come back to a copper bath, and hear the same lions somewhere beyond the canvas after dark.
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The camp
Each tent has hardwood floors, polished silver, a copper bath, and a veranda with built-in daybeds looking out over the plains. Candles flicker and petals float in the bath, and the night sky is not on request; it simply turns up. Your butler looks after everything from early coffee to candlelit turndown.
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Out on the plains
Good to know
Is Bateleur Camp good for families?
Yes, with one caveat. There is a single Luxury Family Tent in the whole camp: two tents joined by an interior passage and a private lounge, sleeping two adults and two children (three children on request, at an additional cost). Everything else sleeps two, so if you are travelling with children the family tent is the first thing to secure, well before flights. &Beyond runs offers for families from time to time and the terms change, so ask us what is current.
When to go
The Great Migration is in the Mara roughly July to October, and &Beyond treats roughly June to October and the Christmas to New Year stretch as peak season. We went in December: fewer vehicles, green grass, and the resident cats busy. If you want the river crossings, go in the migration months and book early. If you want the Mara mostly to yourself, go when we did. Tell us which you prefer and we will tell you honestly which suits.
&Beyond Bateleur Camp
Ask us about Bateleur.
We put together safari itineraries built around places like this one. Bateleur was the Kenya leg of our own Dec-2025 trip; the full story, balloon and night drive included, is in The Serengeti and Masai Mara. Tell us when you are thinking of travelling and we will come back to you with options. Rates change with the season, so we would rather quote you properly than print a number here.
